From Racetrack to Runway
*skip to approximately 02:00 to see our carbon fibre hat
Crafting a Carbon Fibre Hat for Balenciaga’s 53rd Couture Collection
In 2024, we were approached with a collaboration that would push us far beyond our usual comfort zone—and straight onto the Paris runway.
Renowned fashion brand Balenciaga invited Alastair Gibson -a carbon fibre artist, to collaborate with Demna - Creative Director of Balenciaga, on a piece for the 53rd Balenciaga Couture Collection.
Known for his background in Formula One and engineering, Fashion and particularly couture millinery, was uncharted territory for Alastair but naturally, that made it irresistible!
Aero Inspiration
Demna was initially drawn to the sculptural form of our carbon fibre Aero Manta - namely its flowing curves and sense of motion....The same reasons we were initially drawn to this majestic creature.
To explore how these forms might translate into fashion, we purchased a mannequin and began experimenting with manta-like shapes, sketching silhouettes and submitting a series of visual concepts and prototypes to Balenciaga.
After extensive experimentation and back-and-forth, we were given a clear brief:
to recreate one of Balenciaga’s most iconic couture headwear shapes, using our innovative carbon fibre materials and engineering-led processes.
Balenciaga’s 53rd Couture Collection was a tribute to subculture dress codes and their influence on Demna.
In the official collection notes, Demna references four defining elements from Cristóbal Balenciaga’s later couture years:
"3/4 length sleeves, a strong focus on silhouettes, cocoon shapes and extravagant, sometimes eccentric headwear and fabric innovation." - www.couture.balenciaga.com
Our task was to ensure the headwear embodied these principles - while being made from a material more commonly associated with Formula One and aerospace!
Learning from a Master Milliner
We were then introduced to Noel Stewart, an exceptionally talented milliner whose hats have been worn by the likes of Keira Knightly, Lady Gaga, Kylie Minogue, Victoria Beckham, Sharon Stone, Celine Dion and even The Duchess of Sussex to name a few.
A visit to Noel’s London studio gave us insight into traditional millinery processes, his ongoing projects, and—crucially—practical guidance on translating sculpture into wearable fashion. His expertise proved invaluable to us.
To ensure a perfect fit, we were sent home with a life-size bust of the Balenciaga model’s head - that would eventually don our hat. This was imperative as carbon fibre offers zero flexibility, there is no margin for error.
*Fashion illustrations by Kimberly Kay
An Iconic Silhouette, Re-Engineered
Back in the studio, we used advanced scanning technology to digitise the bust and create a precise negative. From this, a mould was machined from tooling material.
The hat needed to be produced in three separate components with discreet joins carefully integrated into the form to ensure a seamless finish fit for the runway where attention to detail is everything.
Laying up the carbon fibre demanded extreme care, as stretching the weave to conform to the curves would have distorted the surface and compromised the final finish. Thankfully, we have an experienced team and this stage proved to be fairly straightforward and unproblematic.
The Moment Carbon Became Couture
Once the carbon fibre forms were laid up, seamlessly bonded together and coated in a UV protective clear coat and with final approval from Demna, we were confident the piece met both couture and engineering standards - which we discovered were one and the same!
The finished carbon fibre hat was shipped to France for its debut on the runway at the Balenciaga 53rd Couture Collection show in Paris — a moment that marked a remarkable crossover between high-performance engineering and haute couture.
This collaboration challenged us creatively, technically, and conceptually. It was unfamiliar territory—but that is often where the most exciting work happens.
Bringing carbon fibre into the world of couture, under the direction of Demna and alongside the traditional millinery expertise of Noel, was an unforgettable experience.